Cheeky Monkey Deli

525 Selby Ave.
St. Paul, MN 55102
651-224-6066
www.cheekymonkeydeli.com


I’ve dined at Cheeky Monkey many times and I can safely say that you’ll never encounter mediocrity -- their food is either delectable or down-right dreadful. It’s bizarre to have had some of the best and worst food all in one spot.

To start on a positive note, the most scrumptious, homemade cream of mushroom soup I’ve ever encountered anywhere was at Cheeky Monkey. At the risk of sounding dramatic, it was an honor to be in the soup's presence, as its every bite brought me closer to food ecstasy. It was so good I was suspicious of its origins. Did someone steal Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi’s secret stash of recipes? After all, only the expertise of the Soup Nazi would know that drizzled basil oil atop the soup would send this random pairing from the minors to the major leagues; all in one flavor-loaded bite.

I was so moved by the experience that I tracked down the chef and gave him a pat on the back for his astounding efforts. As I was certain it would be added to a weekly rotating list, I asked when he’d be making it again. To my chagrin, the chef said he had haphazardly thrown it together, not recalling the exact measurements and thus wasn’t sure when it would be served in the future, if ever. Being a somewhat regular customer of Cheeky Monkey, I’ve kept my eye open for this culinary treasure for nearly two years. On occasion, I’ve been fooled by imposters, ordering what sounds like the original, but inevitably tastes like disappointment.

Also on Cheeky Monkey’s list of homeruns: cumin pork and pickled celery root slaw sandwich served hot on ciabatta, arugula and bacon salad, and the pot roast dinner. Otherwise, the menu is a smorgasbord of failures consisting of cold, hot, and pressed sandwiches as well as salads, soups, and sides. In all fairness, besides the pot roast, I have never tried their hot pots or hot plates (scone pot pie, cumin pork shoulder, and meatloaf) because they aren’t served until after 3pm and I typically hit up the Cheeky Monkey during the lunch rush.


More often than not, I’ve been disappointed with Cheeky Monkey’s Sunday brunch. I’ve ordered a few salmon concoctions that smell (and I’d assume taste) like Liz Taylor’s old lady perfume. Speaking of Liz Taylor, many of their sandwiches could use a makeover -- they’re just missing that certain something…that one ingredient that would tie it all together to make one perfect edible package.

I do like Cheeky Monkey’s ambiance, as it has an old school charm coupled with a modern twist. The aged brick building contains funky modern lighting, bold red walls, and a cozy fireplace, creating a quaint yet hip locale for a small get together. Their cheese and meat boards go for $10 each and they serve a decent selection of wine and beer. I believe you can bring your own bottle of wine for a small corking fee.

As a restaurant that opened its doors in the height of the economic decline, I give them credit for reasonably pricing their menu items; the majority of their food is priced between $5–$8. As you can see, I have mixed feeling about this restaurant. Because the menu items differ greatly in deliciousness, I recommend pinpointing a few menu favorites and then sticking with them, creating your very own Cheeky Monkey staples.

Mindy’s Rating: 6/10 Sporks

Trieu Chau

500 University Ave. West
St. Paul, MN 55103
651-222-6148


Trieu Chau: Authentic? Check. Affordable? Check. Delicious? Check. If you’re jonesing for the real deal -- some honest-to-goodness Vietnamese cuisine -- Trieu Chau is not to be missed. Trieu Chau is part of the slew of Southeast Asian restaurants lining University Avenue and its ambiance is typical of the “hole-in-the-wall” ethnic eateries found on that strip of Frogtown, but something sets Trieu Chau apart from their competitors -- something organic, cleansing, or dare I say Zen.

Known for their pho – a traditional Vietnamese soup made with beef broth, rice noodles, and various odds and ends of beef – Trieu Chau is recognized (in my eyes anyway) as a leading contender in medicinal foods, much like grandma’s homemade chicken noodle soup. Whether I need to cleanse my palate, jump start my digestion, or shake off that “oh shit, I think I’m getting sick” feeling, a ladled pot of beefy, savory goodness always does the trick. Not to mention, pho comes with its own fun factor: it’s served in an enormous bowl fit for the likes of Paul Bunyon and is accompanied by a side platter piled high with bean sprouts, lime wedges, mint leaves, fresh jalapenos, and crushed peanuts. In the end, there’s no one else to blame for the citrus or spice level, as you’re your own dictator in that regard.


If beef isn’t your bag, Trieu Chau also serves similar soups made from chicken or seafood stocks with added proteins ranging from pork, chicken, and meatballs to squid, tripe, and bean curd. Perhaps you’d prefer egg noodles over rice noodles? That can be arranged as well. The versatility of pho is endless. Considering the colossal portions, $5.50 – $6.25 per bowl is a steal. In fact, nothing on Trieu Chau’s menu is over $10, including chow mein, lo mein, and an array of stir-fry dishes. If you’re feeling daring and want to widen your ethnic scope, try a new beverage, such as Xi Muoi (salted plum juice), Sinh To Trai Cay (durian, sour sop, or jack fruit shake), or Soda Sua Hot Ga (soda with egg yolk and condensed milk).

Although Trieu Chau serves a few Americanized Asian favorites like cream cheese wontons and sweet and sour chicken, their secret lies in their clientele – the majority being of Vietnamese descent. As a rule of thumb, you know the food is authentic and well-prepared when the customers hail from the country that inspired that particular restaurant's cuisine. With that in mind, skip the beef fried rice and go for the gold. I implore you to step outside your comfort zone and try something new; if not for you, then for your sheltered taste buds. Trieu Chau couldn’t be a better place for experimentation, as their staff is friendly and helpful, and you won’t go into the poor house while exploring new food frontiers.

Mindy’s Rating: 8/10 Sporks!