St. Paul, MN 55102
651-224-6066
www.cheekymonkeydeli.com
I’ve dined at Cheeky Monkey many times and I can safely say that you’ll never encounter mediocrity -- their food is either delectable or down-right dreadful. It’s bizarre to have had some of the best and worst food all in one spot.
To start on a positive note, the most scrumptious, homemade cream of mushroom soup I’ve ever encountered anywhere was at Cheeky Monkey. At the risk of sounding dramatic, it was an honor to be in the soup's presence, as its every bite brought me closer to food ecstasy. It was so good I was suspicious of its origins. Did someone steal Seinfeld’s Soup Nazi’s secret stash of recipes? After all, only the expertise of the Soup Nazi would know that drizzled basil oil atop the soup would send this random pairing from the minors to the major leagues; all in one flavor-loaded bite.
I was so moved by the experience that I tracked down the chef and gave him a pat on the back for his astounding efforts. As I was certain it would be added to a weekly rotating list, I asked when he’d be making it again. To my chagrin, the chef said he had haphazardly thrown it together, not recalling the exact measurements and thus wasn’t sure when it would be served in the future, if ever. Being a somewhat regular customer of Cheeky Monkey, I’ve kept my eye open for this culinary treasure for nearly two years. On occasion, I’ve been fooled by imposters, ordering what sounds like the original, but inevitably tastes like disappointment.
Also on Cheeky Monkey’s list of homeruns: cumin pork and pickled celery root slaw sandwich served hot on ciabatta, arugula and bacon salad, and the pot roast dinner. Otherwise, the menu is a smorgasbord of failures consisting of cold, hot, and pressed sandwiches as well as salads, soups, and sides. In all fairness, besides the pot roast, I have never tried their hot pots or hot plates (scone pot pie, cumin pork shoulder, and meatloaf) because they aren’t served until after 3pm and I typically hit up the Cheeky Monkey during the lunch rush.
More often than not, I’ve been disappointed with Cheeky Monkey’s Sunday brunch. I’ve ordered a few salmon concoctions that smell (and I’d assume taste) like Liz Taylor’s old lady perfume. Speaking of Liz Taylor, many of their sandwiches could use a makeover -- they’re just missing that certain something…that one ingredient that would tie it all together to make one perfect edible package.
I do like Cheeky Monkey’s ambiance, as it has an old school charm coupled with a modern twist. The aged brick building contains funky modern lighting, bold red walls, and a cozy fireplace, creating a quaint yet hip locale for a small get together. Their cheese and meat boards go for $10 each and they serve a decent selection of wine and beer. I believe you can bring your own bottle of wine for a small corking fee.
As a restaurant that opened its doors in the height of the economic decline, I give them credit for reasonably pricing their menu items; the majority of their food is priced between $5–$8. As you can see, I have mixed feeling about this restaurant. Because the menu items differ greatly in deliciousness, I recommend pinpointing a few menu favorites and then sticking with them, creating your very own Cheeky Monkey staples.
Mindy’s Rating: 6/10 Sporks
